Back in early 2015 I bought my first Alienware 13 gaming laptop and struggled to figure out how to disable the tap-to-click feature of that computer's touchpad under Windows 8. Well that was a different Alienware 13 (it was the "R1" model) and a different Windows. I now own an Alienware 13 R2, and this weekend I installed a fresh copy of Windows 10 on it- only to discover that I was no longer able to disable tapping on this computer under Windows 10. So I was back to square one...
The first time I logged into Windows 10 on my laptop, I opened the Start menu and searched for Touchpad settings, expecting to see the same set of options available under Windows 8.1. Sadly, I was met with this confusing and anemic list of changeable settings:
Literally the only option I was able to configure was Touchpad sensitivity. Even though there was text saying, "Taps: Use taps to click, right-click, and select" there was no way to disable them. Clicking Additional settings just brought up the generic Windows Mouse Properties dialog, with no options at all for the touchpad.
I went to the Dell support page for the Alienware 13 R2 and located the Synaptics Touchpad Driver under Mouse, Keyboard & Input Devices. After installing this driver and rebooting, I checked the Windows 10 touchpad settings again and still only saw the single option to adjust Touchpad sensitivity. Nothing for taps. However, this time when I clicked Additional settings, something new appeared:
While none of the tabs in this dialog had any useful settings, clicking the "Click to change Touchpad settings" link on the Touchpad tab brought me here:
Now, on this Pointing Devices screen if you have the touchpad icon selected at the top and Sensitivity selected on the left, you should see a "Tapping >" link on the right side of the dialog. When you click that link, you then see this page:
Finally, you can uncheck the box next to Tap to click and then click Save. I did this and restarted Windows just to make sure the setting "stuck." And it did!
If these steps didn't work for you, or if you're having trouble finding the correct settings on Windows 8.1, please check out my original post about disabling tapping on Alienware laptops.
Showing posts with label dell. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dell. Show all posts
Sunday, October 1, 2017
Saturday, September 30, 2017
How to Install Windows 10 on the Dell Venue 8 Pro Tablet
I stopped using my Dell Venue 8 Pro a couple years ago because Windows 8.1 just didn't deliver as reliable and satisfying a tablet experience as iOS did on my iPads. I recently decided to install Windows 10 on my Venue 8 to see if the new operating system would make the Venue a better tablet- but I was surprised by how complicated this process turned out to be. It took a lot of research and experimentation to upgrade my tablet, so I decided to compile all my notes and observations in one place to save other Venue 8 owners the trouble.
Installation is painless; just have your tablet plugged in, launch the downloaded file (in my case that was 5830A14.exe), and allow the tablet to reboot if/when prompted.
Some quick notes to guide you during setup:
After both drivers are installed, you should find that you can now do the following:
After logging into Windows 10, bring up the account settings page by pressing the Windows key, clicking your user portrait, and then clicking Change account settings. (You can also open up the search box and type "Manage your account.")
On your account settings page there should be a link that says "Connect to a Microsoft account" or "Sign in with Microsoft." Click this link and enter your Microsoft credentials. From this point on you can log in with your Microsoft credentials.
Instead of being greeted with my desktop upon logging in:
I instead logged into what was essentially a full-screen Start menu:
There was no Desktop tile, and when I launched any apps their icons wouldn't appear in the taskbar, so I could only switch between them using hotkeys. What the heck happened?
Well it seems that after one of the Windows updates I had downloaded, Windows 10 realized my device was actually a tablet and "helpfully" forced it into "tablet mode" for me. This is a mode that's meant to make desktop windows feel more like a mobile/tablet operating system. It's fine for what it is, but there were still some things I wanted to do in desktop mode before I felt ready using the Venue Pro as a tablet again. Here's how to switch between modes:
Pros and Cons of the Venue 8 Pro
I originally got my tablet, the Venue 5830 Pro model, at a huge discount when buying a laptop from Dell a few years ago. I used the thing almost daily for at least a full year before relegating it to a bookshelf when I won an iPad mini at a company picnic.What I liked about the Venue 8 Pro:
- It's got a bright, good-looking screen.
- It's got a sturdy, solid build.
- I like the simple, elegant vinyl folio case I bought with it.
What I didn't like about it:
- The "Windows Store" version of Internet Explorer 11 that came with Windows 8.1 was really slow and unbearable to use. At the time, it was also the only browser available on the Windows Store, so I had to use the tablet in Desktop mode in order to run more responsive browsers like Chrome and Firefox.
- At the time there were also no Reddit Enhancement Suite versions available for Windows Store-compatible browsers, and I find Reddit basically unusable without it, so that was another thing keeping me in Desktop mode on my tablet. (There is now a version available for Microsoft Edge.)
- Windows 8.1 desktop mode sucks on a tablet (no mouse, tiny text, links hard to click, etc).
- Every few weeks the tablet would refuse to wake from sleep mode and I'd have to go through an elaborate set of steps to force the thing to do a hard shutdown and power-on.
Before You Start
My Venue 8 only has 32GB of storage (and of that, only around 25GB is actually available to Windows with the default partitioning scheme), which means that there isn't enough room to do an OS upgrade; only a fresh install on a newly-formatted partition. In order to be sure you don't lose anything before doing a fresh OS install, make sure to do the following:- Back up your data. If you keep any unique files on your tablet, be sure to store copies of them. If your Windows 8.1 user account on the tablet is linked to a Microsoft account, the simplest way to back up those files would be to place them all into OneDrive folders, so they'll be waiting for you once you log into Windows 10 with your Microsoft account.
- Back up your product keys. Even though the Windows 10 free upgrade offer officially ended in 2016, Microsoft quietly still lets licensed Windows 7 and Windows 8 owners upgrade for free with product keys for eligible editions. I used the free program Belarc Advisor to examine my tablet and saved the resulting profile as an HTML profile to my OneDrive account. The Software Licenses section of the profile included the product key for my OEM version of Windows 8.1, which is what I used to activate my copy of Windows 10. Note: While I think my tablet came with a license for Microsoft Office 2013 (version 15.0), I didn't see a product key for it listed in the Belarc report, and I don't know if this is because I never used/activated Office on the tablet or if Belarc Adviser doesn't pick it up. I do not use Office on the tablet anyway, though, so I didn't really care.
- Charge your tablet. This is really important- you won't be able to power your Venue 8 while installing Windows 10, because you'll need to use your USB port for other things during that time. You do not want to run out of battery while installing an operating system, so make sure you're fully charged before proceeding.
Required Hardware
Once Windows 10 is fully installed and updated, you don't need any peripherals to use the tablet, but for several reasons, you will need several devices in order to install the operating system and some drivers.- A powered USB hub with at least three ports for connecting a mouse, keyboard, and thumb drive to your tablet. It must be a powered hub since the tablet's USB port doesn't provide enough juice for multiple devices. I can vouch for this D-Link 7-port hub but any solid powered hub should do.
- A USB Type A female to USB Micro male adapter for connecting your USB hub to the tablet. I used a StarTech 5-inch Micro USB to USB A On-the-Go Host Cable Adapter.
- A USB keyboard, since there will be no soft keyboard support during the Windows 10 install process.
- A USB mouse, since there will be no touch screen support until after Windows 10 is installed and updated.
- A USB thumb drive big enough to serve as a Windows 10 boot drive, and also for copying some necessary driver files to the tablet before it has access to the internet. The drive must be at least 5GB in size, and any data currently on the drive will be wiped out because the process of making it a bootable Windows installer involves formatting it. I get these 5-packs of Topsell 16GB USB 2.0 Flash Drives, and use them for this sort of thing all the time.
- A separate internet-connected computer for downloading drivers and Windows installer files.
Updating the BIOS
In order to fully support Windows 10, you should make sure you're running the most recent BIOS version for your Dell Venue model. In my case, I still had the BIOS version that my tablet shipped with (A04), but the most recent version available for my model (the 5830) was A14. I downloaded the Dell Venue 8 Pro 5830 System BIOS file from this Dell support page.Installation is painless; just have your tablet plugged in, launch the downloaded file (in my case that was 5830A14.exe), and allow the tablet to reboot if/when prompted.
Preparing the Bootable Windows 10 Installer
There are a couple of easy ways to prepare your USB thumb drive for installing Windows 10. Regardless of which method you choose, keep these things in mind:- The Venue 8 Pro can only run 32-bit (x86) versions of Windows, so you need to be careful which version you download from Microsoft.
- The Venue 8 Pro can only detect UEFI-capable boot devices. (Both of the following methods should account for this if you follow the instructions closely.)
Using the Windows 10 Download Tool
If you don't already have an ISO image for a Windows 10 setup disc, use Microsoft's Windows 10 Download tool to get the necessary files and prepare your USB drive. Go to the Download Windows 10 page and click the "Using the tool to create installation media" link to see detailed instructions. The quick steps are here:- Plug in the USB thumb drive you plan to use as your Windows 10 installer.
- Click the Download tool now button to download the file MediaCreationTool.exe.
- Locate the downloaded program and launch it.
- On the first screen, select Create installation media and click Next.
- On the second screen, uncheck the Use the recommended options for this PC box and make sure to pick 32-bit (x86) for Architecture, and then click Next.
- On the next screen, select USB flash drive and click Next.
- On the next screen, select your desired target thumb drive from the list of devices and then click Next. The tool will download the necessary files and prepare your thumb drive.
- The Windows 10 Download Tool creates those infamous $WINDOWS.~BT and $Windows.~WS folders on the computer where you run it, and after your boot media is created there will still be hundreds of megabytes of content left in them. You can use the Delete Windows 10 Download Folders function of my free program, GWX Control Panel, to delete those folders when you're all done.
Using Rufus
As a Microsoft Developer Network subscriber I have access to ISO images of Windows setup discs, so I downloaded the x86/32-bit version of the latest "Windows 10 (Multiple Editions)" DVD image. Here's how to create a bootable USB drive from a downloaded Windows 10 ISO image:- On the computer where you downloaded the ISO file, plug in the USB thumb drive that you intend to use as your Windows 10 boot drive.
- Download and run the latest version of the free tool Rufus.
- On the row that says "Create a bootable disc using," click the button that has a picture of a disc on it and browse to/select your downloaded ISO file.
- Select your target USB thumb drive from the Device list.
- For Partition scheme and target system type, select GPT partition scheme for UEFI.
- For File system, select FAT32.
- Make sure Quick format, Create a bootable disk using, and Create extended label and icon files are all checked, and "ISO image" is selected as the source format.
- Click Start to prepare your thumb drive. This process can take several minutes.
Booting the Venue Pro from the USB Thumb Drive (hardware and software setup)
Since the Venue 8 Pro comes with a UEFI Secure Boot configuration there is no "Press F12 for boot options" prompt when you power up the device. Instead you have two different ways to boot from a properly-formatted USB flash drive:Booting to flash drive from Windows 8.1
- While logged in to Windows 8.1, connect your mouse, keyboard, and flash drive to your USB hub, and then connect the powered hub to your fully-charged Dell Venue Pro.
- Move your mouse to the upper-right corner of the screen to display the Windows 8 charms menu.
- Click the Settings gear at the bottom of the charms menu.
- Click Change PC Settings.
- Click Update and Recovery.
- Click Recovery, and then click Restart now under Advanced Startup. The tablet will boot into advanced startup mode.
- On the Choose an option screen, click Use a device.
- Your USB Flash drive will probably be labeled: "UEFI:Removable Device." If you see such an option, select it to boot from that device. If you do not see an option that looks like it might be your thumb drive, it might not be formatted properly.
Booting to flash drive from power-on
If your tablet's already powered off, there's no need to launch Windows 8 just to reboot it into advanced mode. These instructions are correct as of the latest available BIOS for my Venue Pro model (the 5830). I have seen a lot of alleged instructions posted around the internet for doing this and none of them worked for me. This is the only boot-to-USB-from-power-on procedure that I've managed to get working.- With the tablet powered off, connect your mouse, keyboard, and flash drive to your USB hub, and then connect the powered hub to your fully-charged Dell Venue Pro.
- This part is tricky. You need to hold down the power button just long enough for the device to begin powering on, but let go before the Dell logo appears on-screen. On my tablet 3-and-a-half seconds seems to be the perfect amount of time. You might see lights on your connected keyboard/mouse flash right when you need to let go.
- While the screen is still black (and before the white Dell logo appears), release the power button and then hold down the tablet's Volume Up button until the Dell logo appears on-screen.
Note
If you see the spinning circle of dots that indicates Windows is loading, you missed your window. You might as well just follow the Windows method mentioned above if that happens.
- Once you see the white Dell logo for a couple of seconds, release the Volume Up button. The UEFI boot menu should appear:
- If your USB drive is properly formatted with a 32-bit version of the Windows 10 installer as described in the above sections about Rufus and the Windows 10 Download Tool, you should see an option for your thumb drive on this screen (mine is selected in the picture above). If you only see Windows Boot Manager, it means your tablet doesn't recognize your thumb drive. Use the Volume Up button to navigate to your thumb drive's entry on this screen and press Volume Down to boot from the selected device.
- After a short while, the Windows 10 Setup wizard should begin.
Installing Windows 10
After using one of the above methods for booting to your USB flash drive, you should now see the Windows 10 setup wizard:Some quick notes to guide you during setup:
- These steps assume you have already upgraded your tablet to the latest available BIOS.
- During Windows installation, the tablet's accelerometer isn't available, so you can only work in portrait/vertical mode.
- The touch screen doesn't work during Windows setup, so you'll be glad to have your USB mouse and keyboard here.
- When you get to the "Which type of installation do you want?" screen, pick the Custom: Install Windows only option.
- Choosing how to partition your tablet: On the Where do you want to install Windows screen you will probably find a bunch of partitions listed. Most of these are Dell-created partitions for backup/restore purposes and to store Dell's diagnostic tools. These additional partitions take up 6 gigabytes of the tablet's storage (and my model only has 32GB total). If you would like to keep the existing partition scheme, then you'll want to choose the largest "Primary" partition available (the one selected in my screenshot). The next bullet item in this section has some details on using that partition. If you don't think you'll need those other partitions and would like to reclaim that extra space, I have read that some folks have had success simply using the Delete button here to remove all of the pre-existing partitions and then letting Windows 10 partition the storage with its default settings. I have not tried this personally, so I don't know what you lose by going this route. (If anyone out there tries it, please let me know how it works out!)
- If, like me, you choose to keep Dell's existing partition scheme, you might notice something like the below screenshot, where the Format and New commands are grayed out and there's a warning saying "Windows can't be installed on drive 0 partition 5." This is because the Dell Windows 10 configuration uses BitLocker drive encryption to protect your files. In order to use this space to install Windows 10, you need to select the partition, and then click Delete. After you delete the partition, it will appear as unpartitioned space, which you can then select as your install partition.
- Since the Windows 10 installer doesn't include drivers for the Venue Pro's WiFi, you won't be able to connect to your network or create an online-connected user account during Windows Setup. After setup is complete and you install your WiFi drivers, you'll be able to connect your local user account to your Microsoft account for full Windows 10 functionality.
- When/if prompted for a product key, use the key that you archived with Belarc Adviser (or other methods) in the "Before you start" section of this guide. If you choose the "I don't have a product key" option, the setup wizard will let you proceed, but it will ask you which edition of Windows you wish to install. You must be careful to choose an edition that is a valid upgrade path from your old Windows 8 install. The "Using the tool to create installation media" section of the Download Windows 10 page lists which Windows 7/8 versions map to specific Windows 10 editions.
- Follow the rest of the prompts to allow Windows 10 setup to complete.
Installing drivers and finalizing setup
Once the initial Windows 10 setup procedure is complete, there are a few important things you'll have to do get things working normally, because right now you'll probably notice that:- There is no audio.
- There is no WiFi or Bluetooth connectivity.
- The accelerometers aren't working, so you have to work in portrait mode.
- The touchscreen doesn't work.
- You can only create/use "local" user accounts.
Install required drivers
First off, on an internet-connected computer, go to the Dell drivers page for the Venue 8 Pro and download the following drivers to a USB flash drive. (I created a "downloads" folder on my Windows 10 setup drive for this.)- Network > Dell Wireless 1538 WiFi/Bluetooth Driver
- Chipset > Intel Atom Z3000 Series Driver
After both drivers are installed, you should find that you can now do the following:
- Pair Bluetooth devices.
- Connect to WiFi networks.
- Rotate the device to switch between portrait and landscape modes.
- Use the touch screen.
Update the audio driver
The Z3000 Series chipset drivers actually include the correct driver for your on-board audio, but Windows seems to pick a different sound driver during Windows setup that doesn't work. Here's how to get the audio working (assuming you've already installed the chipset driver). You will want to have a mouse connected for this step.- In Windows 10, open up the Device Manager control panel and expand the Sound, video and game controllers node.
- Right-click Intel SST Audio Device (WDM) and then click Update driver.
- Use the "Search automatically for updated driver software" option and Windows should locate your newly-installed driver.
- Repeat these steps for the Realtek I2S Audio Codec device. In my case, Windows reported that I already had the correct driver.
- Restart Windows. Once you log in you should be able to play and hear audio.
Connect to your Microsoft account
Since you probably had to create a local account during Windows setup, now that you have network connectivity, you should connect to your Microsoft account so that you can use OneDrive and the Windows Store.After logging into Windows 10, bring up the account settings page by pressing the Windows key, clicking your user portrait, and then clicking Change account settings. (You can also open up the search box and type "Manage your account.")
On your account settings page there should be a link that says "Connect to a Microsoft account" or "Sign in with Microsoft." Click this link and enter your Microsoft credentials. From this point on you can log in with your Microsoft credentials.
Where did my desktop and taskbar icons go?
Once my tablet was connected to the internet it began downloading Windows updates, and I let it restart a few times to let all the updates install. At one point, though, when I logged into the tablet, something was very different!Instead of being greeted with my desktop upon logging in:
I instead logged into what was essentially a full-screen Start menu:
There was no Desktop tile, and when I launched any apps their icons wouldn't appear in the taskbar, so I could only switch between them using hotkeys. What the heck happened?
Well it seems that after one of the Windows updates I had downloaded, Windows 10 realized my device was actually a tablet and "helpfully" forced it into "tablet mode" for me. This is a mode that's meant to make desktop windows feel more like a mobile/tablet operating system. It's fine for what it is, but there were still some things I wanted to do in desktop mode before I felt ready using the Venue Pro as a tablet again. Here's how to switch between modes:
- If you're in tablet mode, click the Settings gear on the left side of the screen. If you're in desktop mode, press the Windows key to bring up the Start menu, and search for "Tablet mode settings."
- On the Tablet mode screen, change the "When I sign in" setting to force desktop or tablet mode, or to let Windows decide which is best for your device.
- If you use Tablet mode, you can also decide whether or not to show taskbar buttons by changing the "Hide app icons on the taskbar in tablet mode" option.
Tuesday, September 27, 2016
VR Gaming with the Alienware Alpha R2 Mini PC - Hardware Upgrade Guide
When I ordered my i5-based Alienware Alpha R2 it was exactly what I had been looking for: A tiny, near-silent PC that was small enough to fit on my entertainment center but powerful enough to play my favorite games on a big-screen TV. Shortly after making my purchase however, I decided to take my first dip into virtual reality with the Oculus Rift- and I was disheartened when I read the steep minimum system recommendations for the Rift.
While these are Oculus's "recommendations" rather than strict requirements, developers writing software for the Rift are targeting hardware at least as powerful as the components listed by Oculus, and if your hardware falls short your VR gaming experience can be sub-par (or even literally sickening, due to lag-induced motion sickness)- and in my case, both my graphics and CPU were fairly below-spec.
Thus began my upgrade journey.
Cloning the factory drive was a bit more of a hassle than I had anticipated, thanks to the computer's UEFI setup and how it affected Windows 10. Here's the whole procedure:
Next I connected my new SSD drive to one of the Alpha's front USB ports using a StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA Hard Drive Adapter Cable. Next I connected my LG Ultra Slim Portable DVD external drive to another one of the Alpha's USB ports and popped in the True Image disc and rebooted the Alpha, expecting to be able to press F12 in order to select the DVD drive at startup...
The thing is, the Alpha's factory configuration does not appear to allow booting from a connected USB device. Users of Windows 8 and Windows 10 are probably familiar with UEFI by now, and how it's increasingly rare to see "Press F2 for system settings" and "Press F12 to select a boot device" options when you first power on a computer. For better or worse, the way this is supposed to work under Windows 10 now is this: Click Start > Settings, search for "Recovery options" and then click Restart now under Advanced Setup, and then click Use a device on the "Choose an option" screen, which should then bring up a "Use a device" screen where you can choose the device to boot from. However, the only boot devices my Alpha reveals are "Onboard NIC (IPV4)" and "Onboard NIC (IPV6)." My connected DVD drive was nowhere to be found.
Here's what I had to do: Click Start > Settings, search for "Recovery options" and then click Restart now under Advanced Setup. In the "Choose an option" screen, click Troubleshoot > Advanced Options > UEFI Firmware Settings > Restart. This got me into the Alpha's setup utility, where I could see where the problem was:
The Alpha's default UEFI configuration for whatever reason doesn't honor connected USB devices. The "Onboard NIC" devices (for LAN booting) were the only internal devices the Alpha exposes (other than "Windows Boot Manager," which is just the option that loads Windows). In order to use my USB disc drive to load Acronis True Image, I had to do the following:
But anyone with an i3 or i5-based model will need to upgrade. Of course this is easier said than done. For one thing, when shopping for replacement CPUs you must make sure to get something that uses the correct socket type:
The good news is that you can safely install non-T-series CPUs in the Alphas, but this comes with some caveats:
The CPU replacement procedure was quite simple:
Important: At this time, the only Alienware Alpha models that work with the Graphics Amplifier are those that:
The process was pretty painless for me.
The Alpha cannot enter Sleep mode while connected to the AGA.
The only time I ever actually fully shut a PC down is if I'm about to take it apart (or put it in storage). Instead I configure all my computers that don't have to remain on 24/7 to enter S3 (Sleep) mode when I press the power button, or after a period of inactivity. Sleep mode's much better for me than Hibernation (S4), because a PC can enter and wake from Sleep mode nearly instantly while Hibernation usually takes a fair bit more time.
Anyway, after setting my Alpha up for use with the Rift, I went crazy for a couple of days trying to figure out why I couldn't put my Alpha to sleep. No matter which power scheme I chose in the Windows Power Options control panel, there wasn't even a "Put the computer to sleep" option to set a sleep time-out.
I posted about my problem to the Dell support forum, and unfortunately it turns out that as long as the Alpha is connected to the Alienware Graphics Amplifier, Windows Sleep mode is disabled. I'm pretty unhappy about this, but that's the current state of things. Currently I just shut my Alpha off when I don't need to use it. It's literally the only computer I own or use that I actually have to turn off.
Wake-from-USB is disabled by default (and doesn't work correctly when enabled)
Another thing I like to be able to do is wake my computers by wiggling a mouse or touching a keyboard. I have a number of computers in physically inconvenient locations, but I can wake them up via wireless keyboards/mice because their wireless dongles are USB devices.
Although the keyboard and mouse that ship with the Alpha are wired, the computer comes with a hidden USB 2 port on the underside of the unit explicitly intended for wireless keyboard/mouse dongles. Great, right?
Well, let us for a moment put aside the fact that as long as your AGA is connected to the Alpha, you can't even put your computer to sleep, so there's no point in being able to wake from USB. During the days when I was trying to troubleshoot the sleep problem, I ran across another pretty ridiculous problem.
The Alpha ships with the USB Wake Support option disabled in BIOS. (To enable the feature, you must first disable the "Deep Sleep Control" feature in the Advanced tab, and then change USB Wake Support to Enabled. Note that you probably won't be able to Hibernate after doing this.)
Remember how I said that I have to completely power down my Alpha now, since there's no Sleep option? Well when USB Wake Support was enabled, my computer kept instantly powering back on as soon as it shut down! It would power off and then immediately power back on and start Windows. So I couldn't put the computer to sleep, and I couldn't shut it down either! Needless to say, I re-disabled USB Wake Support once I realized what it was doing.
The USB ports on the Alienware Graphics Adapter are not reliable.
One really cool-on-paper thing about the AGA is that in addition to housing a desktop graphics card, it also serves as a 4-port USB 3 hub. This would be an excellent feature for VR purposes (the Rift, for example, needs 3 USB ports, when you consider the headset, sensor, and game controller), but unfortunately it just doesn't work that well. I'm currently only able to use a single USB port on the AGA reliably; the one for the Rift headset itself. When I have anything else connected to the AGA USB ports, those devices just randomly disconnect and reconnect. The Rift's sensor couldn't even maintain a USB connection long enough for me to get through the initial Oculus setup wizard. Both my Xbox One controller dongle and my Rift sensor are plugged directly into the Alpha's rear USB ports. I've heard other AGA owners complain of this same limitation. It's a real shame.
As you can see, upgrading from the i5-6400T to the i5-6700 alone delivered a 41% gain in raw CPU performance while upgrading from the on-board GTX 960 to the AGA-hosted GTX 1070 resulted in a 36% jump in graphics performance. Passmark doesn't weight 3D graphics too heavily in its overall score, explaining why the final PassMark score is only 23% higher than the base configuration.
The Alpha throttles non-T CPUs.
According to the PassMark site, a standard i7-6700 running under normal circumstances should get a CPU score of 9967. As you can see in my test results on the alpha, my 6700 scored 9069.8 on the 6700/1070 test, which is closer to PassMark's rating of the 6700T, which is 8918. So my Core i7-6700 seems to perform a little better than a 6700T would in the same system- but not by much. I did not try putting my 6700K in the Alpha. I was worried that the Alpha might not be able to rein that one in. I'd like to hear from anyone who's tried it.
From these scores we can see that as far as gaming goes, the CPU makes the biggest difference in physics computations (34% boost in Physics when upgrading to the i7-6700) while the graphics card upgrade resulted in huge pure graphics gains (60% increase in Graphics score when switching from GTX 960 to the GTX 1070).
I was pleased to find that the Alpha managed to keep the temperatures in a safe range:
And here are the results of the SteamVR Performance Test:
The actual VR performance of the Alpha has been excellent so far. All native VR titles I've tried with it have worked without a hitch. Here's the whole setup, to give you an idea of scale and space required for both the Alpha and the Graphics Amplifier. At the bottom is the Logitech K830 Illuminated Living-Room Wireless Touchpad Keyboard I got for the setup, so I can use the Alpha from the couch. The wireless dongle is connected to the Alpha's hidden USB 2 port.
While these are Oculus's "recommendations" rather than strict requirements, developers writing software for the Rift are targeting hardware at least as powerful as the components listed by Oculus, and if your hardware falls short your VR gaming experience can be sub-par (or even literally sickening, due to lag-induced motion sickness)- and in my case, both my graphics and CPU were fairly below-spec.
Thus began my upgrade journey.
IS THE ALPHA IDEAL FOR VR?
While I love the Alienware Alpha for what it is- a small, powerful-for-its-size living room gaming PC, it is definitely not the first thing I'd recommend to someone who mainly wanted to play virtual reality games and didn't care about the form factor. There are several reasons for this:- The on-board graphics in all Alpha models released to-date fall short of current VR minimum recommendations. The recommended GeForce GTX 970 is around 32% more powerful than my Alpha's GeForce GTX 960 graphics, for example. (Note: The recommended specs for the competing HTC Vive are a little strange here: They recommend the NVIDIA GeForce 1060- which is ~8% faster than the GTX 970 or the AMD Radeon RX 480- which is ~13% slower!)
- Only the i7 models have CPUs that meet minimum VR recommendations. The recommended Intel i5-4590 processor is around 25% more powerful than the low-wattage i5-6400T in my Alpha, based on Passmark CPU scores. (Note: The same Intel CPU is recommended for the HTC Vive, but they also recommend the AMD Radeon RX 480, which is ~20% faster than the i5-4590.)
- The Alpha only has one video output. Whichever headset you end up going with (Vive or Rift) is going to require an HDMI port, and you will need at least one other video output to drive a regular monitor. While there are solutions (like this special bi-directional HDMI switch) that let you share a single video output, depending on what you need to do and the specific games/apps you work with, sometimes that's just not going to be enough. Trust me, you want multiple independent video outputs.
- While Alienware offers the ability to use higher-end graphics via the very cool Alienware Graphics Amplifier (AGA), this kind of cancels out the primary appeal of the Alpha: its small and sleek design. The AGA is huge and it adds noise.
- The Graphics Amplifier introduces some other problems that I'll discuss later, which make the computer less-than-ideal for general use.
CLONING AND REPLACING THE HARD DRIVE
When ordering a computer online, I always pick the cheapest storage solution available so I can replace it with the drive of my choosing (you can usually find better after-market storage solutions cheaper than what OEMs charge). In this case, my Alpha arrived with a 500GB Seagate Laptop Thin HDD. The "thin" in the name is accurate, by the way- it is the slimmest 2.5" hard drive I've ever seen, more like an SSD drive in physical size. I replaced it with a Crucial MX200 500GB SATA SSD. Crucial's MX models come with a serial number for Acronis True Image HD, which is a handy tool that I used in the replacement process.Cloning the factory drive was a bit more of a hassle than I had anticipated, thanks to the computer's UEFI setup and how it affected Windows 10. Here's the whole procedure:
Next I connected my new SSD drive to one of the Alpha's front USB ports using a StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA Hard Drive Adapter Cable. Next I connected my LG Ultra Slim Portable DVD external drive to another one of the Alpha's USB ports and popped in the True Image disc and rebooted the Alpha, expecting to be able to press F12 in order to select the DVD drive at startup...
The thing is, the Alpha's factory configuration does not appear to allow booting from a connected USB device. Users of Windows 8 and Windows 10 are probably familiar with UEFI by now, and how it's increasingly rare to see "Press F2 for system settings" and "Press F12 to select a boot device" options when you first power on a computer. For better or worse, the way this is supposed to work under Windows 10 now is this: Click Start > Settings, search for "Recovery options" and then click Restart now under Advanced Setup, and then click Use a device on the "Choose an option" screen, which should then bring up a "Use a device" screen where you can choose the device to boot from. However, the only boot devices my Alpha reveals are "Onboard NIC (IPV4)" and "Onboard NIC (IPV6)." My connected DVD drive was nowhere to be found.
Here's what I had to do: Click Start > Settings, search for "Recovery options" and then click Restart now under Advanced Setup. In the "Choose an option" screen, click Troubleshoot > Advanced Options > UEFI Firmware Settings > Restart. This got me into the Alpha's setup utility, where I could see where the problem was:
The Alpha's default UEFI configuration for whatever reason doesn't honor connected USB devices. The "Onboard NIC" devices (for LAN booting) were the only internal devices the Alpha exposes (other than "Windows Boot Manager," which is just the option that loads Windows). In order to use my USB disc drive to load Acronis True Image, I had to do the following:
- On the Boot tab, choose Disabled for Secure Boot. The setup utility won't let you modify the Boot List Option setting until you do this.
Note
You'll see a warning that changing this setting may prevent your operating system from booting. (And it will, but we will reverse the situation later.) - Next, change Boot List Option from UEFI to Legacy. (You'll also probably get another warning when you change this setting.) This changes the "Boot Option Priorities" list to a longer list named "Set Boot Priority."
- For 1st Boot Priority I chose USB Storage Device.
- For 2nd Boot Priority I chose CD/DVD/CD-RW Device.
- And for 3rd Boot Priority I chose Hard Drive. (I don't have any M.2 PCIe drives installed.)
- I pressed F10 to save and exit.
- Now when the computer restarted I saw the old F2 and F12 options, and I was able to boot from the DVD drive.
- Inside True Image, I used the Clone Disk operation to copy my entire internal hard disk image to my attached SSD drive.
- Reboot the computer after the clone operation is complete.
- Press F2 when you see the prompt to enter the BIOS setup utility.
- Back at the Boot tab, change Boot List Option back to UEFI.
- Now change Secure Boot back to Enabled.
- Press F10 to save and exit, and allow Windows 10 to boot up from the original drive just to make sure your computer's still configured correctly. If it still works, you can now safely replace the drive.
UPGRADING THE CPU
If you have one of the i7-based Alphas, don't worry- you're already set. The i7-6700T processor that ships with R2 models is around 24% more powerful than the i5-4950 that Oculus recommends. (Even the i7-4785T that shipped with the R1 Alphas qualifies, surpassing the i5-4950 by about 5% in raw CPU benchmarks.)But anyone with an i3 or i5-based model will need to upgrade. Of course this is easier said than done. For one thing, when shopping for replacement CPUs you must make sure to get something that uses the correct socket type:
- R1 Alphas have the LGA1150 ("H3") socket, used by Intel's Haswell and Broadwell processors.
- R2 Alphas have the LGA1151 socket, used by Skylake and Kaby Lake.
The good news is that you can safely install non-T-series CPUs in the Alphas, but this comes with some caveats:
- To avoid melting your computer, the Alpha powers your replacement CPU at T-series levels, more or less delivering T-series performance, regardless of your CPU's stated clock speed.
- The only processors powerful enough for VR that Alienware has officially approved for use in the Alpha are hard-to-get T-series models. (For the R1s it's the i7-4765T and i7-4785T, and for the R2s it's the i7-6700T.) While non-T processors have been proven to work by Alpha owners like me, using them in your Alpha might void your Dell warranty.
The CPU replacement procedure was quite simple:
- Disconnect all cables and place the unit on a clean, flat surface in a static-free environment.
- Remove the bottom plate of the Alpha (4 screws).
- Flip the unit over and slide off the top cover.
- Pop the fan housing off of the CPU and set it aside.
- Before removing the heat sink, take note of how it's installed (there's a little gap in one side that has to be in a certain position in order for you to re-assemble the PC later; it's possible to install the heat sink in the wrong direction before you realize what you've done). Then remove the heat sink (4 screws) and set it aside.
- Replace the old CPU with your new one. The i7 processors are easy to line up correctly, since they have a marked corner that lines up with the marked corner on the socket.
- Apply some thermal compound to the new CPU. I used a slightly-less-than-pea-sized drop of Arctic Silver 5, which has worked out just fine, but I've since read that Arctic MX-2 or Arctic MX-4 might perform even better. (Arctic and Arctic Silver are different companies.)
- Clean the old compound off of the heat sink then screw it back into place, making sure it's positioned the same way it was before you removed it.
- Replace the CPU fan (and re-connect it if you disconnected it earlier).
- Replace the top cover.
- Flip the unit back over and replace the bottom plate before plugging everything back in.
UPGRADING THE GRAPHICS
With the R2 generation of Alphas, Alienware introduced the ability for some models to offload graphics capabilities to an external desktop graphics card via the Alienware Graphics Amplifier.Important: At this time, the only Alienware Alpha models that work with the Graphics Amplifier are those that:
- Belong to the R2 generation (ASM200 models, not ASM100).
- Have NVIDIA GeForce GTX960 graphics. (Therefore, the models with AMD graphics are not compatible, even though their motherboards have an AGA connector.)
Which graphics card should you use?
Before selecting a graphics card to use in you Graphics Amplifier, you should first check this mini technical support FAQ to see which graphics chipsets have been approved for use with the AGA. Next you have to narrow your selection down to a specific model. While shopping, keep a few things in mind:- The AGA was designed with NVIDIA "reference cards" in mind, which are around 1.5 inches wide, 4.6 inches tall, and 10.5 inches long. Some very long cards might not fit.
- The AGA was also designed for blower-cooled cards, which push air along the card's body and out the back of a computer instead of blowing air sideways inside the computer chassis. Here's an example of a blower style card that works in the AGA.
- If you're shopping for good cards for VR, remember that you'll want something with enough of the right video ports on it. Most (possibly all?) cards supported by the AGA have at least two ports, but you want to make sure they're the right connectors for your video hardware (monitors, VR headsets): For example, do you need HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, etc?
Setting up the Graphics Amplifier
You should read the Alienware Graphics Amplifier FAQ before setting yours up. Alienware updates it with the details on the latest supported graphics cards over time, which is important because sometimes brand-new cards have special driver installation requirements that aren't obvious to most users.The process was pretty painless for me.
- First I checked Dell's Product Support site to make sure I had the latest version of the "Alienware External Graphic Amplifier Software" installed. In my case, I found that I already had the latest version.
- Next I used the Check for updates feature on the Drivers tab of NVIDIA GeForce Experience program to check for the latest graphics drivers. There were some updates available, so I downloaded and installed the new drivers.
- Next I powered off the Alpha.
- I installed my GTX 1070 card in the AGA and connected my television's HDMI In connection directly to the GTX 1070 (via the DisplayPort-to-HDMI cable I mentioned earlier) instead of to the Alpha's video out.
- Next I connected the Graphics Amplifier to the Alpha using the special AGA cable.
- Finally I powered the Alpha back on and logged into Windows. After I signed on it took several minutes for Windows 10 to reconfigure itself to use the correct driver for the Alpha (the Device Manager said I was just using a generic Microsoft display driver until the drivers were fully configured), but once the driver fully kicked in I was all set.
AGA-related Complications
We'll get to the benchmarks in a bit, but first I wanted to mention a few AGA-related issues I've experienced.The Alpha cannot enter Sleep mode while connected to the AGA.
The only time I ever actually fully shut a PC down is if I'm about to take it apart (or put it in storage). Instead I configure all my computers that don't have to remain on 24/7 to enter S3 (Sleep) mode when I press the power button, or after a period of inactivity. Sleep mode's much better for me than Hibernation (S4), because a PC can enter and wake from Sleep mode nearly instantly while Hibernation usually takes a fair bit more time.
Anyway, after setting my Alpha up for use with the Rift, I went crazy for a couple of days trying to figure out why I couldn't put my Alpha to sleep. No matter which power scheme I chose in the Windows Power Options control panel, there wasn't even a "Put the computer to sleep" option to set a sleep time-out.
I posted about my problem to the Dell support forum, and unfortunately it turns out that as long as the Alpha is connected to the Alienware Graphics Amplifier, Windows Sleep mode is disabled. I'm pretty unhappy about this, but that's the current state of things. Currently I just shut my Alpha off when I don't need to use it. It's literally the only computer I own or use that I actually have to turn off.
Wake-from-USB is disabled by default (and doesn't work correctly when enabled)
Another thing I like to be able to do is wake my computers by wiggling a mouse or touching a keyboard. I have a number of computers in physically inconvenient locations, but I can wake them up via wireless keyboards/mice because their wireless dongles are USB devices.
Although the keyboard and mouse that ship with the Alpha are wired, the computer comes with a hidden USB 2 port on the underside of the unit explicitly intended for wireless keyboard/mouse dongles. Great, right?
Well, let us for a moment put aside the fact that as long as your AGA is connected to the Alpha, you can't even put your computer to sleep, so there's no point in being able to wake from USB. During the days when I was trying to troubleshoot the sleep problem, I ran across another pretty ridiculous problem.
The Alpha ships with the USB Wake Support option disabled in BIOS. (To enable the feature, you must first disable the "Deep Sleep Control" feature in the Advanced tab, and then change USB Wake Support to Enabled. Note that you probably won't be able to Hibernate after doing this.)
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You must disable Deep Sleep Control in order to enable USB Wake Support. |
The USB ports on the Alienware Graphics Adapter are not reliable.
One really cool-on-paper thing about the AGA is that in addition to housing a desktop graphics card, it also serves as a 4-port USB 3 hub. This would be an excellent feature for VR purposes (the Rift, for example, needs 3 USB ports, when you consider the headset, sensor, and game controller), but unfortunately it just doesn't work that well. I'm currently only able to use a single USB port on the AGA reliably; the one for the Rift headset itself. When I have anything else connected to the AGA USB ports, those devices just randomly disconnect and reconnect. The Rift's sensor couldn't even maintain a USB connection long enough for me to get through the initial Oculus setup wizard. Both my Xbox One controller dongle and my Rift sensor are plugged directly into the Alpha's rear USB ports. I've heard other AGA owners complain of this same limitation. It's a real shame.
PERFORMANCE BENCHMARKS
I performed benchmark tests at every step of the way in the upgrade process so I could measure the impact of upgrading the graphics and processor. For reasons I can't explain, I somehow lost the 3DMark scores from the baseline 6400T/GTX960 configuration, however I have Passmark scores from all four CPU/GPU combinations, so I'll do those first:PassMark PerformanceTest
Here are the raw scores for PassMark PerformanceTest 8, for each of the four configurations I tested:As you can see, upgrading from the i5-6400T to the i5-6700 alone delivered a 41% gain in raw CPU performance while upgrading from the on-board GTX 960 to the AGA-hosted GTX 1070 resulted in a 36% jump in graphics performance. Passmark doesn't weight 3D graphics too heavily in its overall score, explaining why the final PassMark score is only 23% higher than the base configuration.
The Alpha throttles non-T CPUs.
According to the PassMark site, a standard i7-6700 running under normal circumstances should get a CPU score of 9967. As you can see in my test results on the alpha, my 6700 scored 9069.8 on the 6700/1070 test, which is closer to PassMark's rating of the 6700T, which is 8918. So my Core i7-6700 seems to perform a little better than a 6700T would in the same system- but not by much. I did not try putting my 6700K in the Alpha. I was worried that the Alpha might not be able to rein that one in. I'd like to hear from anyone who's tried it.
Futuremark 3DMark 11
And here are the results from the 3DMark 11 "Performance" suite of tests (these tests run at 1280x720 resolution). Again, sorry I lost the scores for the i7-6400T/GTX 960 combo.From these scores we can see that as far as gaming goes, the CPU makes the biggest difference in physics computations (34% boost in Physics when upgrading to the i7-6700) while the graphics card upgrade resulted in huge pure graphics gains (60% increase in Graphics score when switching from GTX 960 to the GTX 1070).
Temperatures
A big concern I had before replacing my CPU was TDP- the amount of heat generated by the CPU during normal use. The tiny Alienware Alpha was designed for low-wattage processors for a reason: They generate less heat, and thus don't need huge and complicated cooling systems. I was worried that the higher clockspeeds of the i7-6700 (whose TDP is twice the 6700T) or i7-6700K (whose TDP is 3x the 6700T!) would drive the Alpha beyond its cooling thresholds, resulting in (at best) poor performance or (at worst) physical damage to the CPU and motherboard.I was pleased to find that the Alpha managed to keep the temperatures in a safe range:
- Idle: Average ~44 degrees (C) Recorded range: 39-57
- No Man's Sky at 1920x1080 fullscreen: 63 degrees (C) max
- Elite Dangerous in VR mode on the Rift: 62 degrees (C) max
VR Compatibility Tests
After all the upgrades, here are the results of the Oculus Rift Compatibility Tool:And here are the results of the SteamVR Performance Test:
The actual VR performance of the Alpha has been excellent so far. All native VR titles I've tried with it have worked without a hitch. Here's the whole setup, to give you an idea of scale and space required for both the Alpha and the Graphics Amplifier. At the bottom is the Logitech K830 Illuminated Living-Room Wireless Touchpad Keyboard I got for the setup, so I can use the Alpha from the couch. The wireless dongle is connected to the Alpha's hidden USB 2 port.
Sunday, March 22, 2015
SOLUTION: Disabling Tap-to-Click on Alienware 13 Gaming Laptop Touchpad
UPDATE (October 1, 2017): This post is about the "R1" release of the Alienware 13 on Windows 8.1. Things have changed with the "R2" models and Windows 10. Please see my newer post about how to disable tapping with that configuration.
It's March of 2015 and I just received my brand new Alienware 13 laptop yesterday. Overall I've been pleased with this little machine, however I became quite concerned when I realized I couldn't locate a feature I had apparently taken for granted on all other laptops I had owned before: The ability to disable Tap-to-Click.
On most Windows laptops, you can get to your touchpad settings by clicking a special icon on the system tray or by opening a special tab inside the operating system's Mouse control panel. But I came up dry trying to locate any touch pad configuration options in any of the usual places:
No special icon in my system tray:
No extra tabs in the Mouse control panel:
Only generic Microsoft device entries under Mice and other pointing devices in the Windows Device Manager:
No AlienTouch app in the AlienWare Control Center (I don't know if this is supposed to be available on the Alienware 13, but it's not there anyway):
Perhaps Dell simply hadn't included the right driver in my OS build? I took a look at the Alienware 13 downloads page and became hopeful when I discovered a relatively recent "Synaptics Touchpad Driver" installer. The driver installed (as in, it successfully copied driver files to my hard drive), but even after a system restart there was no trace of any way to change my touchpad settings.
After some internet searches I discovered that some other Alienware 13 owners have had the same problem, although many other people with Alienware 13s apparently do have working Synaptic drivers installed that have touchpad configuration options.
So what's going on? My current theory is that not all Alienware 13s out there have the same touchpad microcontroller. Most of them seem to have Synaptics touchpads (in which case, the drivers from Dell's site should work), but some of them (like mine) almost certainly do not. I don't know who made the touchpad circuitry in my laptop, but luckily I don't have to.
If you have a touchpad that fully conforms to Windows 8.1's specifications, you should be able to change important settings inside the Windows 8 Modern (formerly called "Metro") user interface. Here's how:
First bring up the Windows 8 Start screen, and type the word mouse. When the "Mouse and touchpad settings" entry appears, click it to open the PC and Devices screen to the appropriate page.
The PC and Devices screen opens to the Mouse and touchpad page. Scroll down to the bottom and select Turn off taps in the list control under where it says "To help prevent the cursor from accidentally moving while you type, turn off taps or change the delay before taps work:"
Mission accomplished, bro.
While I was doing my internet searches, I saw a number of Alienware owners complaining that they weren't able to find a way to make it so that they could continue to use their touchpads while they had an external mouse plugged in. There is an option on this same screen called "Leave touchpad on when a mouse is connected," and I figure that should help those folks.
Now that I've figured out the touchpad situation, I'm really pleased with this little computer. It is by no means a desktop replacement, but it's quite good for playing World of Warcraft and Minecraft at 1920x1080 full-screen, doesn't get too hot, and is the quietest laptop I've ever owned.
It's March of 2015 and I just received my brand new Alienware 13 laptop yesterday. Overall I've been pleased with this little machine, however I became quite concerned when I realized I couldn't locate a feature I had apparently taken for granted on all other laptops I had owned before: The ability to disable Tap-to-Click.
THE PROBLEM
On most Windows laptops, you can get to your touchpad settings by clicking a special icon on the system tray or by opening a special tab inside the operating system's Mouse control panel. But I came up dry trying to locate any touch pad configuration options in any of the usual places:
No special icon in my system tray:
No extra tabs in the Mouse control panel:
Only generic Microsoft device entries under Mice and other pointing devices in the Windows Device Manager:
No AlienTouch app in the AlienWare Control Center (I don't know if this is supposed to be available on the Alienware 13, but it's not there anyway):
Perhaps Dell simply hadn't included the right driver in my OS build? I took a look at the Alienware 13 downloads page and became hopeful when I discovered a relatively recent "Synaptics Touchpad Driver" installer. The driver installed (as in, it successfully copied driver files to my hard drive), but even after a system restart there was no trace of any way to change my touchpad settings.
After some internet searches I discovered that some other Alienware 13 owners have had the same problem, although many other people with Alienware 13s apparently do have working Synaptic drivers installed that have touchpad configuration options.
So what's going on? My current theory is that not all Alienware 13s out there have the same touchpad microcontroller. Most of them seem to have Synaptics touchpads (in which case, the drivers from Dell's site should work), but some of them (like mine) almost certainly do not. I don't know who made the touchpad circuitry in my laptop, but luckily I don't have to.
THE SOLUTION
If you have a touchpad that fully conforms to Windows 8.1's specifications, you should be able to change important settings inside the Windows 8 Modern (formerly called "Metro") user interface. Here's how:
First bring up the Windows 8 Start screen, and type the word mouse. When the "Mouse and touchpad settings" entry appears, click it to open the PC and Devices screen to the appropriate page.
The PC and Devices screen opens to the Mouse and touchpad page. Scroll down to the bottom and select Turn off taps in the list control under where it says "To help prevent the cursor from accidentally moving while you type, turn off taps or change the delay before taps work:"
Mission accomplished, bro.
While I was doing my internet searches, I saw a number of Alienware owners complaining that they weren't able to find a way to make it so that they could continue to use their touchpads while they had an external mouse plugged in. There is an option on this same screen called "Leave touchpad on when a mouse is connected," and I figure that should help those folks.
Now that I've figured out the touchpad situation, I'm really pleased with this little computer. It is by no means a desktop replacement, but it's quite good for playing World of Warcraft and Minecraft at 1920x1080 full-screen, doesn't get too hot, and is the quietest laptop I've ever owned.
Wednesday, March 27, 2013
Optimal Screen Resolution for WaveLab 7
Steinberg Wavelab 7
displays more information on your screen depending on your monitor's resolution. If you have a relatively low screen resolution, you might not be seeing all the default elements of your given workspace.
This is another detail about WaveLab that's infuriatingly undocumented, but through some personal experimentation, I've determined the minimum monitor resolution you need to have in order to see a complete workspace: 1280x1024.
If your monitor supports at least 1280x1024 resolution, you will see not only the core elements of any given WaveLab workspace, but you'll see the tab groups (circled below) up at the top portion of the screen as well.
If you happen to be running at a lower resolution (anything less than 1024 vertical), you can only see the tab group elements if you force them onscreen by selecting them from Workspace > Specific tool windows or Workspace > Shared tool windows.
The monitor I had when I first got WaveLab was 1600x900, and did not show the tab groups. I just recently upgraded to a Dell S2440L
, which now shows the tab groups at its native resolution of 1920x1080.
This is another detail about WaveLab that's infuriatingly undocumented, but through some personal experimentation, I've determined the minimum monitor resolution you need to have in order to see a complete workspace: 1280x1024.
If your monitor supports at least 1280x1024 resolution, you will see not only the core elements of any given WaveLab workspace, but you'll see the tab groups (circled below) up at the top portion of the screen as well.
If you happen to be running at a lower resolution (anything less than 1024 vertical), you can only see the tab group elements if you force them onscreen by selecting them from Workspace > Specific tool windows or Workspace > Shared tool windows.
The monitor I had when I first got WaveLab was 1600x900, and did not show the tab groups. I just recently upgraded to a Dell S2440L
Labels:
dell,
geekstuff,
music production,
steinberg,
wavelab
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
SOLUTION: Black Borders Around Screen on Dell S2440L Monitor
I just bought a Dell S2440L Monitor
, and was initially surprised (and a little apprehensive) when I unpacked it to discover that it only had VGA and HDMI ports, no DVI. (I'd previously had some bad experiences with HDMI-only connections on PCs.)
Anyway, my fears seemed confirmed when I logged into Windows for the first time with the S2440L connected. While my screen resolution was correct (1920x1080), there was a large black border around the viewable portion of my screen; the Windows desktop did not fill the whole screen.
I could not find any settings in the monitor's own menu options that made any difference, and changing refresh rates had no positive effects.
I should note that I have an ATI Radeon HD 5700 series graphics card and, and I eventually stumbled across a poorly documented feature of the ATI software that was causing the problem. Here's how to fix it on Windows 7:
Anyway, my fears seemed confirmed when I logged into Windows for the first time with the S2440L connected. While my screen resolution was correct (1920x1080), there was a large black border around the viewable portion of my screen; the Windows desktop did not fill the whole screen.
I could not find any settings in the monitor's own menu options that made any difference, and changing refresh rates had no positive effects.
I should note that I have an ATI Radeon HD 5700 series graphics card and, and I eventually stumbled across a poorly documented feature of the ATI software that was causing the problem. Here's how to fix it on Windows 7:
- Go to Start > Control Panel > Display.
- Click Adjust Resolution, then click Advanced Settings.
- On the Catalyst Control Center tab, click Catalyst Control Center. After a while, the Catalyst Control Center dialog should appear.
- On the left side of the dialog, click My Digital Flat-Panels, and then click Scaling Options (Digital Flat-Panel).
- On my computer, the Scaling Options slider was set somewhere in the middle. Slide it all the way to the right (the "Overscan" direction), to 0%. You should see an immediate change.
- Click Apply, and then close the Control Center.
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